Tree pruning do’s and don’tsHey guys, David Eisenhower here with Eisenhower Tree Care, and if you’ve ever looked at a tree in your yard and thought, “Maybe I’ll just clean it up a little,” this one’s for you.
Let me walk you through some real-world do’s and don’ts of tree pruning. These aren’t just random tips—they’re what I’ve learned out in the field, keeping Kansas City trees healthy, strong, and beautiful.
DON’T: Cut Off Lower Limbs
I see this way too often—people think taking off those lower branches “cleans up” a tree. But guess what? Those limbs are doing important work. They provide value straight to the trunk, help with stability, and support the overall health of the tree.
Chopping them off? You’re creating unnecessary wounds and encouraging weak, unbalanced growth up top. Bad idea.
DON’T: Strip Out the Interior (AKA “Lion’s Tailing”)
When you strip out all that interior growth, you’re not helping the tree—you’re stressing it out. It forces growth to the ends of the branches, making them longer and more likely to break.
What we do instead is called selective thinning—we clean it up strategically while still protecting the tree’s natural structure and energy balance.
DON’T: Over-Mulch Around the Trunk
Mulch is great… until it’s not. Piling it up around the trunk suffocates the root flare (that base where the tree meets the ground), and that part needs oxygen. Keep mulch away from the trunk and let that base breathe.
DON’T: Over-Prune (Especially All at Once)
Here’s the rule of thumb: don’t remove more than 25% of a tree’s canopy during pruning. And even that depends on the species.
Some trees can’t handle that much at once—and if you go too far, you could seriously weaken it or leave it open to disease.
DON’T: Cut Too Close to the Trunk
Every limb has a “branch collar”—a natural swelling where it connects to the trunk. That’s where the healing happens.
Cut too close, and the tree can’t seal off the wound. You’re inviting decay, disease, and long-term damage. I’ve seen mature trees wrecked because of bad cuts that never healed properly.
DON’T: Top a Tree (Unless There’s a Real Reason)
Topping—a.k.a. cutting the top off a tree to shorten it—is almost never the move.
Sure, it brings down the height temporarily, but the regrowth is weak, fast, and often worse than before. You’ll get a bunch of tall, flimsy shoots, and now the tree’s actually more dangerous than it was before. Trust me, avoid this unless you have a specific, strategic reason.
DO: Start with Clean, Disinfected Tools
This one’s easy but super important—always disinfect your tools.
You’d be shocked how easy it is to transfer disease from one tree to another, especially if you’ve been working on a sick tree one day and a healthy one the next. At Eisenhower Tree, we clean our equipment regularly. No exceptions.
DO: Focus on Weight Reduction at the Canopy Edges
Rather than chopping big limbs, we focus on reducing weight at the ends of branches. This helps the tree stay balanced, especially in storms, and reduces the chance of big limbs breaking.
This kind of thoughtful pruning makes your tree safer, healthier, and a whole lot prettier.
DO: Use Subordination Cuts to Manage Structure
Now we’re getting into advanced stuff. If a tree has multiple competing stems at the top (which many do), we don’t just cut them all down—we subordinate the weaker ones.
Basically, we tell the tree, “Hey, grow more over here, not there.” This helps keep the main structure strong and prevents future breakage. It’s what separates solid, storm-resistant trees from the ones you see split in half after a windy night.
DO: Prune at the Right Time of Year
Best time to prune? Late winter to early spring, right before trees push out new growth.
Why? Less sap, fewer bugs, and a better healing window. But it also depends on the species:
- Oaks (red and white) – Always prune in winter to avoid disease.
- American elm – Same deal. Avoid summer cuts.
- Ash trees – We prune in winter to reduce attraction for pests like the emerald ash borer.
Knowing your tree species matters—don’t just start cutting.
DO: Use the Right Equipment (and Stay Off Ladders)
Let me be real: ladders and chainsaws don’t mix.
Our crews wear hard hats, chainsaw chaps, safety glasses, steel-toed boots—the whole setup. It’s not about looking cool. It’s about making sure we all go home safe. If you’re climbing a ladder with a saw and no safety gear, you’re playing with fire.
Bonus Tip: Prune with the Future in Mind
At the end of the day, our goal is simple—help your trees survive storms, stay strong, and keep adding beauty to your home for decades.
We don’t just hack and slash. We manage growth, structure, and risk. It’s a long game, and with the right care, mature trees can stay safe and stunning for generations.
If all of this sounds like a lot—it’s because it is. Tree care isn’t just cutting branches—it’s about making smart, informed decisions to keep your trees (and your property) thriving.
And if you’re in Kansas City and want a professional set of eyes on your trees? Hit the link in the description. We’d love to come out and give you a free consultation.
Stay safe out there,
David Eisenhower
Eisenhower Tree Care
